Who's walking who?

While reactivity is the most common behaviour 'issue' we deal with with our clients, pulling on the leash is the number one most common 'obedience' issue that we see with clients.
It is also the one behaviour issue that has generated more product development (and some of the nastiest equipment too) than any other - all those "miracle" cures and still leash pulling is a problem; go figure!

Believe it or not nice loose leash walking (LLW) manners are pretty easy to teach but as usual we teach our dogs to pull! (Are you beginning to see a pattern here? we are the cause of many of the 'problems' we blame our dogs for!!)

Dogs pull for a number of reasons:

• first off they have twice the number of legs we have so move faster than we do
  
• they have different priorities than we do when out walking - we like to take in lovely sights where as dogs move so as to gather as much scent-information as possible by following pee-mails and scent trails
  
• the act of pulling, which causes an opposition relfex is highly rewarding to dogs (you have seen sled-dogs pulling? they look like they are having fun, right?)
  
• dogs get where they want to go by pulling to get there - works every time, with owner in tow!
  

Despite all the tools, training is the only solution - tools are just that, they don't necessarily change behaviour forever. So lets look at how to train the dog to walk nicely.

Is it heeling, LLW or just not pulling?

First thing you need to understand is that different people have different ideas of what they want when walking their dog on leash. Decide what you want and work for that.

Heeling is traditionally a competitive obedience position that involves the dog walking on the handler's left side, dog's shoulder level with handler's trouser seam, maintaining close position and eye contact.
This position, although it looks smart, is usually not necessary for pet dog walking.

Loose leash walking (LLW) can mean a number of different things, depending on who you talk to. It is essentially just the dog walking at such a pace and in such a position that keeps the loose leash. Many people like to categorise a loose leash as one that looks like a 'smile' as the dog walks.
I ask owners to hold the leash and their belt buckle - if the dog puts sufficient pressure on the leash to move their hand away from their belt buckle then that is not a loose leash.
When teaching LLW we usually look for a close-ish position, some eye contact and attention on the owner. The leash should form a J shape between handler and dog. This position is suitable for crossing the street, walking along busy streets or close to other dogs.

'Just not pulling' is what most people want from their dogs. For the most part this is the position we aim for - no pressure on the leash. Dog can range and wander within the leash's length e.g. 6 feet but no more. This is a normal everyday walking position ideal for most dogs in many situations.

A combination of 'just not pulling' and a closer LLW with attention are the basics in leash walking that pet dogs require at a minimum.

Step 1: you've guessed it, its management

We have to stop the dog getting the opportunity to practice this behaviour any longer - lets face it, they are already pretty good at it! This is where tools come in but be careful not all tools are suitable for all dogs.

Up to a couple of years or so ago, I would probably have recommended head collars in many situations where we were re-training leash walking.

Not so anymore and there are a couple of reasons.
The first being that many dogs find head collars really aversive and in some cases even after I have worked hard on gradual desensitisation and counterconditioning (D+C) in an attempt to teach them to enjoy wearing it. Out of all the head collars out there I find dogs most able to enjoy wearing a Gentle Leader but only after a careful D+C program.
Secondly, I find that many pet owners don't want to go through the gradual process of introducing the head collar and they lose faith and abandon the process too early.

Don't get me wrong head collars are still part of my tool box but I use them only in very specific cases, usually connected with reactivity and rarely with loose leash walking exercises.

Instead, I have almost totally converted to the use of front-leading harnesses for LLW training. There are several brands including the Halti harness, the Easy Walker and the Sens-ation and Sens-ible Harnesses.
Right now I prefer the Halti one as there is a ring for leash connection at the front and in the more traditional withers region. This adds to versatility and I like to use it with a training leash that has two trigger hooks on it or alternatively with two leashes, one attached to each ring.

When out walking, this will stop the dog from pulling because as he does the leash tightening on the front ring will guide the dog to the side and back towards you. Along with training techniques this is a very effective tool.
But, like all tools it is limited - there is no point using it unless you are going to work on training the dog too. Otherwise the dog will learn to pull on this just as he did on all the other tools that you have tried.

When working on LLW (or indeed any training exercises) please do not use choke chains, prong collars, tightening collars, shock collars, extendable leashes, regular harnesses or any gimmicks. These are not necessary and will make training and behaviour change more difficult. Not being able to go where he wants to go at the pace he wants to go at is aversive enough without adding more aversives to the process.

Did you know that other than being unreliable and dangerous, extendable leashes teach the dog to pull?! The dog must pull so that the leash extends therefore the dog is rewarded for putting pressure on the leash. Also, when pulled the leash provides a little resistance as the spool extends - this creates that opposition reflex further reinforcing the pulling.

Jerking, popping, yelling, hitting, poking, kicking are not necessary for leash training (or indeed any training) so please don't include these acts in your training programs. They don't stop the dog from pulling (think why you must repeatedley do it?) and just serve to cause your dog to think worse of you.

APDT (UK) Why we don't use choke chains - remember pressure on the neck caused by any training tool can lead to problems so train your dog to walk nicely rather than rely on tools.

Step 2: training exercises

There are several different training exercises that I incorporate when training leash manners. Not only do we work on leash working but also on other cues particularly positions such as sit and on eye contact and attention.

Red Light Green Light

This is really another management exercise as I don't believe this on its own to be truly powerful enough to teach a dog to walk nicley on leash.

Because we have taught our dogs to get where they want to go by pulling that has now got to STOP.

If the dog puts pressure on the leash, stop in your tracks and be a very boring tree. Do not move nor engage the dog - totally ignore him.

For what ever reason the leash slackens, immediatley start walking again. This must become a regular part of your dog's walks and you must be consistent.

Red light green light should start from the time that the leash is put on the dog, even while still in the house. The dog must be calm to have his leash put on firslty and then must not put any pressure on the leash from that moment onwards.

The first time it might take you several minutes just to get to the front door but after just a little consistency (and a lot of visualising calm blue oceans!) you will be able to proceed on a walk in a calm manner.

While implementing red light green light you may also want to use penalty yards for dogs that really put effort into pulling you toward something smelly plus sometimes its easier to move backwards than to stnad still.

If the dog pulls, use the front clip harness to guide the dog gently back as you take a step or two backwards. This is also nice as it gets the dog focused on you again. Reward a slack leash with a brisk walk back to whatever was initially so interesting.

Attention!

Lets start with focus exercises as these are needed for all sorts of training. Having the 'watch me' means that he is paying attention to you and not watching (and getting excited by) all the things going on around him. This is important in situations that your dog is likely to get wound up about.

Teach your dog that watching you is very rewarding. Begin by teaching a focus cue indoors in a low distraction area. You can lure or capture this behaviour - I prefer capturing as once you get the behaviour, it is quicker as you don't have to fade lures.

• To lure the dog start with something tasty in your hand and move your hand to your mouth as if you were going to eat it (but don't). You can make yummy noises to get his attention.
  
• Before moving your hand to your mouth, say 'watch me' or 'look'.
  
• Your dog's gaze will hopefully follow your hand and as soon as his eyes flicker to meet yours say 'YES' and give him the treat.
  
• After 4 or 5 trials like this begin to hold the treat in your hand but move your other, empty hand to your mouth - still use the treat as a reward delivered from your other hand.
  
• After another 4 or 5 trials you should have a dog that will make eye contact on the verbal cue and not have to wait for the hand movement.
  
• Now begin to fade the moving hand by making smaller movements after you say the focus cue. (for example, only move your hand to your chin, then only to your neck level etc.)
  
• After only a couple of training sessions you should be able to ask for eye contact without the need to move your hand or lure the dog.
  
• Remember the most important part of lure-reward training is the removal of the lure as early on as possible -otherwise it is likely to become a crutch for dog and trainer.
  


• To capture eye contact, sit with your dog in a boring situation. Ignore your dog's attempts to get attention or to get a game going and wait.
  
• Eventually he will give eye contact, as soon as he does even if only for a split second be ready to click and treat.
  
• Very soon he will begin to offer eye contact, add a focus cue and only click and treat eye contact given after the focus cue.
  
• Saying that however, I am happy to reward my dog for offering spontaneous, un-cued eye contact at any time, especially if we are around other dogs - so much so that it has become part of Rufus's default behaviour when he wants something; he sits and bores his eyes into yours, moving his big slobbery face close to yours until you give in and let him have whatever he is looking for!
  

Regardless of how you get the behaviour as soon as you have it on cue you can begin to build the amount of time the dog is required to look at you. You will soon be able to proof this while out and about in ever more distracting situations.

Try these advanced exercises:

• Hold a ball, toy or yummy treat out to the side of your body and waggle it. Your dog will focus on that and wait for him to offer eye contact. As soon as he does deliver the ball, toy or treat. Top Training Tip: use distractions as rewards - something your dog really wants is a perfect reward. Ask for a desired behaviour such as a watch me and then allow him access to the distraction.
  
• Ask your dog for a sit AND eye contact as part of his Learn-to-Earn exercises.
  Bring your dog to an area where there is lots of doggie traffic. Sit at a distance that is mildly distracting for your dog. Play 'Look at that' by clicking and treating everytime your dog looks at another dog. Soon your dog will be watching you rather than other dogs. You can then move closer and begin working at that distance.
  
• Stand in front of your dog and ask him to watch you. Turn slightly to the side and wait for your dog to find your eyes again - reward him and repeat. This is great exercise for teaching your dog to keep eye contact while on the move.

Recognise the above focus exercises, yes they are from out recent posting on training recalls! That's how important focus exericses are - they are needed everywhere.

Sit to Greet

Sit is probably one of the most important and helpful exercises to teach your dog. It can be applied to a million different situations and in some is literally a life saver.

For LLW training at the very least you should have a good verbal sit cue and teach your dog to sit to ask to greet other people and animals.

Sit, Stand and Down - lure reward training positions, remember to get rid of the lure as quickly as possible.

Now that your dog has learned to sit in a low-distraction place, you have to proof it in all sorts of exciting situations. The best place to practice sit training at home is just inside the door so that your puppy likes sitting here, and can be taught to do so when greeting people. Have a little pot of kibble inside the door so that your dog can be rewarded for polite greetings.

When out and about start training Sit to Greet at such a distance from the greet-ee that your dog does not get too excited. Your dog should be getting the idea that the way to greet others is to sit first and the way to keep the greeting pleasant is for him to keep all-4-on-the-floor.

Say Please!

Teach your dog that access to exciting, yummy things comes through you only. This is especially important if your are training (or rather re-training) an adult dog. Implementing a 'Learn-to-Earn' program is easy and a great relationship booster.

The dog must perform a desired behaviour such as a sit before you allow him access to anything that he wants such as being fed, throwing the ball, playing tug, jumping up onto the sofa, going out the door, getting his leash on, talking to that dog, greeting that person...well you get the idea. Anything that the dog wants they must ask politely for.

Like any training exercise this needs to be proofed in different situations so remember to practice while out on walks too.

Saying please includes before having the leash put on. If you take your dog's leash out and your dog goes nuts then do not put his leash on until he is calm. This may take a while - you have trained him to be crazy as he is rewarded for this behaviour with a walk.

Follow Me!

Before we teach the dog to walk nicely on leash we have to teach him to follow us. This is an exercise more for the owner than the dog (aren't they all, I hear you say!) You need to learn how to keep the dog with you without having the back up of a leash and collar - be an interesting, exciting owner and your dog will want to stay beside you.

I prefer rewarding with a toy for this exericse that I hide in my pocket until we have a break for a quick game of tug.

The secret to getting your dog following, is to move away from him while talking to him in an excited voice. If your dog loses interest, tries to get ahead of you or moves off in another direction you should change direction to encourage following again. Essentially you will do the opposite to your dog - if he slows you speed up, if he turns you go in the other direction etc. This way the dog learns to keep an eye on you.

Start, as always, in a low distraction area and reward following after a few steps. Build the distance you can maintain a following dog and then move onto higher distraction areas.

If your dog does not follow do what ever you have to get and keep his attention. DO NOT work with your dog off leash in an unsecured area unless you have a 100% reliable recall.

Following Course at Home
Following Course at the Park
Open Field Following

If you have learned to keep your dog with you, paying attention to you, even in a distracting environment then you are ready to start LLW!

One-Step-Sit

Now we are going to put these three exericses together: sit, watch me and follow.

Start working on this in a boring situation (on leash) and just wait for your dog to sit. As soon as he sits take a giant step and wait for your dog to join you. It doesn't matter what he is doing, whether he is staring into space, barking or pulling on leash - just wait.

He will eventually come to find your face and he will sit. As soon as he does reward him and take another giant step.

Next time won't take so long and soon you have a dog that is calmly moving with and sitting as soon as you stop.

Now you can begin to delay giving him his treat and wait for him to make eye contact with you (while sitting) before treating him.

When you have progressed to the point where he is offering eye contact as he moves with you and then automatically sits when you stop you can begin building the number of steps that you take.

Follow different patterns so that the dog is encouraged to walk along side you - walking in a circle, with the dog on the inside of that circle will encourage him to walk closely.

As you build to taking several steps you will notice that as you slow down in preparation to stop your dog will watch you closely and then sit. You are learning how to have him pay very close attention to you -slow down slightly.

Reward One Step and Sit

This lovely simple exercise teaches a very nice attention giving closer walking position which is ideal for distracting, exciting and busy situations. You will need to proof it in ever distraction situations and build the number of steps up.

Default Loose Leash

This along with the above exercises are really the important ones for me and like with any training program, with a bit of fairness, consistency and patience you will see success. A loose leash should be a default behaviour for your dog - what I mean is that the dog should always be aware of keeping the leash loose, without cueing from you. So if you stand still the dog may move within the length of the leash amid distractions without a word from you - sounds hard to believe? well get started working on it so!

First decide what length of leash is comfortable for walking your dog (well, ok this should be decided at the very start but here we are!). I think the best length for comfort and versatility is a 6 foot leash that has another ring so it can be shortened if necessary.

Begin this training exercise in a small room, such as the bathroom so as to give the dog a chance at success - he can't move too far away in a small room.

Click and treat (C+T) the dog while the leash is loose - which should be quite a bit because you are working in a small area.

As you get the hang of it, start putting a small amount of pressure on the leash, just so it goes taught and wait for the dog to move in such a way that slackens the leash.

C+T as soon as he moves to loosen the leash.

After a few sessions of this move to a larger room, after a few sessions here the dog should be getting the idea and you should be able to move around the room. If he tightens the leash you move so that the pressure is slight and then wait for the dog to move in such a way that loosens the leash again. C+T his efforts to keep the leash loose.

Remember anytime the dog moves with you keeping a loose leash, C+T.

After a few sessions, you can begin to up the distraction level by training outdoors in relatively low distraction situations.

Regularly stop and stand still and remind the dog that a loose leash is the way to C+Ts.

I really like the Silky Leash videos from Grisha Stewart of Ahimsa Dog Training - she trains dogs that tension on the leash is cue to return to you - neat! Check out the videos and see for yourself.

Walking in a wide circle, with your dog to the inside of the at circle, is the best way to develop a close walking position. Take a few steps, wait for your dog to join you at your side, then C+T. Repeat until you can move around the entire circle with the dog at your side - this will take practice.

Cavaletti, Ladders and Balanced Walking

Whenever I do Who's walking who? Workshops for pets and their people one of the favourite tools is cavaletti, ladders and obstacles.

Let me explain - cavaletti are borrowed from the horse world and are basically ground or very nearly ground poles that are spaced according to the size and condition of the animal. They are used to help the animal develop and extend gait, to develop the animal's rear strength, to teach the animal how to improve placement of their feet, to raise awareness of their body positioning and lots more. There are lots of uses for these tools in performance horse and dog training.

By using low cavaletti or a ladder flat on the ground we can teach a pulling dog to slow and steady their gait and concentrate how to place their feet.

I first heard of balanced walking when I started to research and study T-touch. Pulling dogs are off balance all the time and by helping them to maintain balance they will find it easier to walk without forging ahead.

For more information check out these resources on T-touch walking in balance by Jennifer Merrit:
Walking in Balance with T-touch
Walking in Balance with T-touch video

For more information on T-touch why not check out Getting in T-touch with your dog by Linda Tellington-Jones.

During Who's walking who? Workshops we also use several different clicker training methods including these discussed here.

Walking your dog should be a pleasure for you and your dog and should not be dreaded or cause you to have an aching body (pulling causes much aching for dogs too). Please teach your dog to walk nicely on leash so that everyone enjoys daily walks and trips.
The first and most important thing to remember is to not allow pulling - remember when going on walks during training use your front clip harness and red light green light (with penalty yards) so that you prevent pulling being rewarded.
Work on training exercises in the mean time in ever increasingly distracting situations so that soon you will be able to walk from A to B without having to stop and start.

Walking nicely is beneficial to people and pets and does wonders for the pet-owner relationship so give your dog a new loose leash on life!

If you would like any advice on LLW with your dog don't hesitate to contact Pet Central for help.

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Happy training!

Recommended Trainers in Ireland

By now you get it - Pet Central is all about positive solutions to pet dog training and behaviour issues.
We want to make sure that pet owners (and their pets) have plenty of support and as many options as possible so that all training can be positive.

Here is a list of trainers from around the country who also choose positive, kind and scientifically derived training methods:

• Maureen Byrne Ph.D., Cert. Dog PsychologyClogherhead, Co. Louth, Ireland.
  Tel: 086 8200010. Email: mobyrne@utvinternet.com/www.dogsbehavingbadly.ie
  
• Emmaline, Carlow - www.citizencanineireland.com Contact No: 0857697274
  
• Bev Truss, Clare - Pet Problems www.petproblems.net
  
• Alison Bush Happier Hounds Dog TrainingGraigu SpinkAbbeyleix Co Laois
  Phone: 0877749521 Email: happierhoundsdogtraining@topmail.ie
  
• Dog Training Ireland, Dublin www.dogtrainingireland.ie E-mail: info@dogtrainingireland.ie Phone: 01 8665088

So now there's no excuse not to go with positive, fun and effective training no matter where you live!

Rover? Rover! ROVER!!! - 100% reliable recalls

Can you honestly, hand-on-heart, say that every single time you call your dog and ask him to come to you that he turns on a dime and comes bounding enthusiastically back to you?


100% of the time?


Amid distractions as attractive as another dog (or other people) playing ball, from dog-play, from chasing squirrels or away from anything else that your dog reeeeeally loves?


A-ha! but how often do you have to say his name and/or his recall cue? How much do you have to raise your voice or shout in that growling, threatening tone?



Recall is one of the most difficult things to teach your dog - it seems that there are always lots of things out there far more interesting to your dog than you!
If you have a puppy - great, they are easy to teach recall and you can start fresh without all the bad habits. If you have an adolescent or adult dog, it may be quite a bit of work but so worth it.


Not only is recall difficult, it is also one of the most essential behaviours to teach your dog. But like so many behaviours that we see as problems in our dogs - we teach our dogs NOT to come back to us!


To the dog, being called back to mum or dad more than likely means that they are to be put on their leash, that fun ends, that they will be deprived access to something really lovely, that its home time or worse, they will be told off, leash jerked, yelled at and all the other things many people think they must do to their dog for all sorts of misguided reasons.


I can really understand a dogs reluctance to return to his owner!


But it is possible to teach dogs that returning to you and staying close to you in the first place is the fun-nest place to be. This may not be easy, particularly if there is a history of all those anti-recall things in place, but it is important and following our outlined program will make it fun too.



1. The first step is always management.
If you are reading this you probably need help with recall training, therefore it is unlikely that you have a 100% reliable recall with your dog. If you cannot answer 'yes' to those questions at the top, then you MUST keep your dog leashed in public.


Owners who do not have a 100% reliable recall with their dogs have a dog that is not under effectual control when off leash - this is against the law in Ireland.

Owners who do not have a 100% reliable recall with their dogs have a dog that is at risk of causing harm to others and itself - off leash dogs cause accidents, frighten people and get injured themselves.

Owners who do not have a 100% reliable recall with their dogs but insist on allowing their dogs off leash damage the reputation of responsible dog owners.


I understand that you want to allow your dog to run around and enjoy himself but to do so only puts him in a terrible position.


In these cases you could bring your dog to a secure area such as a fenced area (but watch out for those who do not close gates after them plus your dog still may get into trouble with other people, dogs or animals).


The most ideal solution is to exercise your dog on a long line (not an extendable leash - dangerous, unreliable, teaches your dog to pull, yuck!).

It is best to fasten a long line to a harness so that your dog won't get a jerk when they get to the end of it. A long line is a just a really long leash - get one that is of a length that you can handle. Trying to use one that is too long may still cause your dog to get into trouble as you will have difficulty controlling him.

I usually tie knots about every 12-18 inches along a long line so that you have better control by either grabbing the line or by putting your foot on it in an emergency.

A long line is also required when teaching and proofing recalls so is a valuable tool to have for some of the exercises required.



Remember management should stop the dog getting the opportunity to practice unwanted behaviours - the more practice they get, the better they get at it! Management in this case also keeps your dog safe -win win!


Please be aware that although Pet Central does not agree with BSL in any form we still must highlight the following:
If you own a breed or mix that is listed as a restricted breed, then by law that dog must be leashed in public.
Other dogs may only be off leash in parks etc. at certain times and according to local conditions. To be a responsible owner you must be aware of dog law as it applies to you and your dog.


We have posted about Ireland's BSL before - click here for more information.



2. Say please!
Teach your dog that access to exciting, yummy things comes through you only. This is especially important if your are training (or rather re-training) an adult dog. Implementing a 'Learn-to-Earn' program is easy and a great relationship booster.

The dog must perform a desired behaviour such as a sit before you allow him access to anything that he wants such as being fed, throwing the ball, playing tug, jumping up onto the sofa, going out the door, getting his leash on, talking to that dog, greeting that person...well you get the idea.

Anything that the dog wants they must ask politely for.


Like any training exercise this needs to be proofed in different situations so remember to practice while out on walks too.



3. Watch me!
Teach your dog that watching you is very rewarding. Begin by teaching a focus cue indoors in a low distraction area.

You can lure or capture this behaviour - I prefer capturing as once you get the behaviour, it is quicker as you don't have to fade lures.

• To lure the dog start with something tasty in your hand and move your hand to your mouth as if you were going to eat it (but don't). You can make yummy noises to get his attention.


• Before moving your hand to your mouth, say 'watch me' or 'look'.


• Your dog's gaze will hopefully follow your hand and as soon as his eyes flicker to meet yours say 'YES' and give him the treat.


• After 4 or 5 trials like this begin to hold the treat in your hand but move your other, empty hand to your mouth - still use the treat as a reward delivered from your other hand.


• After another 4 or 5 trials you should have a dog that will make eye contact on the verbal cue and not have to wait for the hand movement.


• Now begin to fade the moving hand by making smaller movements after you say the focus cue. (for example, only move your hand to your chin, then only to your neck level etc.)


• After only a couple of training sessions you should be able to ask for eye contact without the need to move your hand or lure the dog.


• Remember the most important part of lure-reward training is the removal of the lure as early on as possible -otherwise it is likely to become a crutch for dog and trainer.
  


• To capture eye contact, sit with your dog in a boring situation. Ignore your dog's attempts to get attention or to get a game going and wait.


• Eventually he will give eye contact, as soon as he does even if only for a split second be ready to click and treat.


• Very soon he will begin to offer eye contact, add a focus cue and only click and treat eye contact given after the focus cue.


• Saying that however, I am happy to reward my dog for offering spontaneous, un-cued eye contact at any time, especially if we are around other dogs - so much so that it has become part of Rufus's default behaviour when he wants something; he sits and bores his eyes into yours, moving his big slobbery face close to yours until you give in and let him have whatever he is looking for!

Regardless of how you get the behaviour as soon as you have it on cue you can begin to build the amount of time the dog is required to look at you. You will soon be able to proof this while out and about in ever more distracting situations.

Just as when we start actual recall training, while teaching focus exercises we tend to use the yummiest of yummy things as rewards.

Try these advanced exercises:

• Hold a ball, toy or yummy treat out to the side of your body and waggle it. Your dog will focus on that and wait for him to offer eye contact. As soon as he does deliver the ball, toy or treat.
  Top Training Tip: use distractions as rewards - something your dog really wants is a perfect reward. Ask for a desired behaviour such as a watch me and then allow him access to the distraction.


• Ask your dog for a sit AND eye contact as part of his Learn-to-Earn exercises.


• Bring your dog to an area where there is lots of doggie traffic. Sit at a distance that is mildly distracting for your dog. Play 'Look at that' by clicking and treating everytime your dog looks at another dog. Soon your dog will be watching you rather than other dogs. You can then move closer and begin working at that distance.


• Stand in front of your dog and ask him to watch you. Turn slightly to the side and wait for your dog to find your eyes again - reward him and repeat. This is great exercise for teaching your dog to keep eye contact while on the move.

4. Collar Grab = Treat
About a fifth of all dog bites occur when someone tries to take a dog by his collar. This may be because the dog is uncomfortable with handling or may associate collar grabs with something unpleasant such as being put outside or being told off.
Regardless of why, we must teach dogs that having their collar grabbed and being restrained this way is absolutely brilliant because when it happens something yummy comes their way.
This should start with puppies but if you have an adult dog that ducks his head when you try to take his collar or he runs everytime he sees the leash then you need help with this problem before it gets worse.

• Start while your dog is in a relaxed position, such as sitting beside you. Put a finger into his collar and only put enough pressure on that the dog can feel. Immediately give the dog something yummy.
• Once your dog is happy with this, you can try approaching the dog when he is standing near to you, take his collar gently and deliver something yummy.
• As your dog progresses you can begin to lengthen your approach toward him before taking his collar and giving him the yummy.
• Once you have a dog that is happy for you to march up to and take his collar you can being to working beside him again with a little more pressure. If your dog shows discomfort with the amount of pressure you put on his collar, take a little pressure off and work from there.
• This should be practiced in all sorts of situations and throughout the dogs life, from puppy hood right through adult hood.

** these exercises should not be carried out on a dog that ducks away, freezes, lowers his head, hard stares, growls, snaps, lunges, bites etc. when a person approaches, reaches for and/or takes the dog by the collar. You need professional advice and should contact Pet Central as soon as possible for help or a referral. **

• When you have a dog that enjoys collar grabbing start working in the leash (you can actually work on these two exercises simultaneously providing you have a dog that is ok with collar handling in the first place).
• Hold the leash behind your back so that the dog cannot see it. Take it out and show it to the dog. Immediately deliver something yummy.
• Leash goes away, treats go away (open-bar-closed-bar)
• After only a few trials your dog will begin to look for his treat when he sees the leash.
• Now you can begin to clip the leash on the dog's collar and deliver something yummy.
• Remove the leash and remove the treats.
• Repeat this all over the house - not only are you teaching the dog to love the sight of his leash (most dogs do as it means walkies!) but you are also teaching calmness to have the leash put on.
• Because as of yet you are not walking your dog off leash practice this exercise around the house and garden and on a long line while out and about.
• Put your dog on leash and walk a few steps, ask the dog to sit and 'watch me' and then allow him off leash. You could throw a ball or treat for him or allow him to greet another dog or to sniff that tree just to up the reward of being off leash.
• Repeat this regularly for the entire walk so that the dog learns that going back on leash is not the end of fun.

5. Sacred name
Your dog's name is a very special word - if you use your dog's name and then follow it with a telling off, a slap or an unpleasant experience your dog soon learns to avoid whoever utters this special word.
You must NEVER speak your dog's name in anger and only ever use it when you are going to allow the dog access to yummy fun things e.g. when you are about to serve his dinner, when you are inviting him to come up on the sofa for a cuddle etc.
This is a people training exercise - everyone in the house must be consistent.

You can teach your dog that his name is a special word by sitting with him quietly. Say his name in your normal tone and then deliver something yummy.

Once you have his full attention with his name begin to say his name when he is not looking at you - he should whip his head around to you - reward him with something yummy.

Not only should your dog think his name means something lovely is about to happen we must also teach the dog that hearing his name does not mean the end of fun.

Just as I am asking you not to scold with the dog's name I am also asking you to NEVER use the dog's name to call him away from fun because if you do you must allow him back to his business. This is where teaching Distraction Recalls come in which we will talk about a little later.

So the new name rules are:

• only say your dog's name if you have something yummy and/or fun for him
• say your dog's name in your regular voice - you don't need to shout dogs have very good hearing
• do not use your dog's name if you are going to take him away from something he considers fun
• do not use a threatening, scolding tone of voice when calling your dog's name

6. Recall Relays
This is a fun family dog training game which not only helps to teach dogs that recalls are great, but also gets everyone involved and helps to tire out high energy dogs (think adolescents or collies or shepherds or labs or...).

Have as many people as possible stand in as wide a circle as possible so that there is plenty of space between each person.
Everyone should have a zip-lok bag of your dog's favourite treats.
Each person should take turns calling the dog, taking the dogs collar and delivering a treat. Then the next person and so on. Mix it up and don't always go in order.

Add a little more to it after a few rounds by calling the dog, asking for a sit, then take the collar and give a treat.

After a session or two of Recall Relays your dog should have the idea that coming to whoever is calling him is very beneficial. Now you can introduce the use of a recall cue along with the dog's name such as "Rover Come".

Just as with the dog's name, the new recall cue is also sacred and should be treated with the same care that the dog's name requires.

7. Distraction Recalls
This is probably my all time favourite training exercise as it is just so effective and sends very clear signals to the dog.

This exercise requires two people: trainer and distractor. The trainer has no treats or toys on them but the distractor holds one of the dog's top reinforcers such as a yummy treat or his favourite tug toy.

The trainer and distractor should move several feet apart but not too far. The trainer should show the dog that they have nothing of value but the distractor should make their wares as attractive as possible to the dog without actually allowing them access.

The trainer should call the dog once - it is likely that the dog will ignore them. The trainer should try to encourage the dog to come (without using the dog's name or recall cue) by clapping, kneeling down etc. but should not move toward the dog. Meanwhile the distractor should ignore the dog.

Eventually (and it can take a while) the dog will give in and go to the trainer. At this time, the distractor should rush forward to the trainer and deliver a yummy reward or give the trainer the tug toy for a great game.

This exercise should be repeated in as many varying situations as possible. Once the dog will go to the trainer immediately upon being called, change reinforcers and change locations. Remember to work the dog on a long line if you in an unsecured area.

This exercise will let the dog know that the best way to get access to a distraction is to be obedient first. This can be practiced in real world situations too by recalling your dog regularly from play or sniffing and then allowing them back to the fun.

A variation of this recall exercise written about by Jean Donaldson in The Culture Clash describes using a favourite toy, a distractor and a bucket.
The toy should be tied on a line and dragged by the distractor running away from the dog. When the dog alerts to the moving furry toy the trainer should call the dog (as above); the dog is however likely to ignore the trainer and pursue the toy. In which case the distractor should cover the toy with the bucket.
When the dog eventually recalls to the trainer the dog should be allowed to chase and catch the toy.
This is particularly helpful for dogs who like to chase after small, running furries.

8. Hide n' Seek
A great game to play with dogs is hide n' seek with their favourite person - you! This teaches dogs to follow your voice and to keep an eye on you at all times. Its also fun and a great rainy day game that can be played indoors.

Take some of your dog's favourite treats or a beloved tug toy and hide. For the first few trials, hide in a pretty easy position but you can make it more difficult as the dog progresses.

Call the dog once from your hiding position and wait for him to find you. You can continue to make little tongue clicking noises especially when first starting this training game.

As soon as the dog finds you give him his treat or have a game of tug and then repeat. As your dog progresses you can hide without making noise at all - letting your dog sniff you out.

This exercise can be proofed in secure areas with your dog off leash or non-secured areas on a long line so that your dog learns to follow you and to pay close attention to you even while out and about.

9. Emergency Recalls:

In dog training there is lots of talk of emergency cues so I think it is important to mention it here. I would however prefer that regular recalls were treated as emergencies because someday they might be. Saying that, I do have different recall and attention cues for Rufus depending on the situation.

An emergency cue is one that will be used in an urgent situation and as such will probably be spoken or shouted in a panicked voice. This is where I feel the usefullness of this exercise comes in. Normally I would not encourage you to use such a tone of voice when recalling your dog but everyday situations will not require such panic.

If your dog was running toward a busy road after a cat you are hardly going to call softly and happily but to do otherwise may scare your dog thus deterring him from returning to you. So this means we have to teach the dog that a special recall cue in a panicked voice means the best of the best rewards. Again, a long line should be used and this should be done after the above steps have been mastered even in high distraction situations.
As usual start in a low distraction area and call the dog in a panicked, shrieky voice and then reward heavily. This shoul be practiced in all sorts of situations including those that mimic real world occurences.

When I use Rufus' full name (Rufus) it means that I want him to come to me NOW and if I address him as Ruf' he knows that this is a bit more laid back and he can take his time and just follow rather then return all the way to me.
Rather then an emergency recall I use an emergency stop cue to prevent Rufus getting into trouble.

10. Emergency Stop:

As important as I believe recalls to be the emergency stop is just as important and as much time should be spent teaching this exercise as recall ones.

This exercise involves asking your dog to stop and maintain a particular position even when a distance from their owner and amid distractions.

Rufus is not really an active, springy dog so the 'wait' cue that I have proofed strongly asks him to freeze in a standing position until released. This may be until I get to him or I may release him before or after.
I found this easier to teach him then a recall as I was not asking him to takes his eyes off a distraction and a lot of the time I allow him access to the distraction if he has 'waited' as asked.

For livlier dogs a sit or even a down position will be more useful - my last dog was a Border Collie (Chip) who had a rock solid distance down as he was like a bullet when he was off leash!

Check out these great videos from Dr Ian Dunbar teaching a Distance Sit; much more proofing will be needed to include more distracting situations and I would suggest that you work in a secured area and/or on a long line:

Distance Sits Explained
Distance Sits in Action

In these videos Dr Dunbar is working with a trained dog but when starting from the beginning you should work through each of the four steps separatley and proof each one until being able to combine them.

100% Reliable Recall Quick Training Tips:

• Keep your dog's name (and his recall cue) special - always use it in association with something your dog enjoys.
• Use your dog's absolute favourite treats, toys and games for recall training - it really is that important.
• Set your dog up for success and keep safe - use a long line for exercise and training until you have a 100% reliable recall.
• Use distractions as rewards.
• Make yourself interesting to your dog so as to get his attention: run in the opposite direction, call excitedley, jump around, use a high pitched tone of voice, waggle his favourite toy, be a fun owner!
• Have your dog ask for access to fun things such as greeting dogs, people, sniffing trees etc.
• Leash your dog regularly while out walking and then allow him off again.
• Don't always leave the park via the same exit - your dog may learn to avoid a recall on approach to the exit if he thinks its home time.
• Practice collar grab-reward exercises regularly (once it is safe to do so).

Ask Pet Central for help with recall training - summer is the perfect time to build on this essential exercise.
Remember to always have an up to date ID tag on your dog's collar and harness (its the law) and get your dog microchipped, register your details and keep them updated. Do not allow your dog to roam free and only unleash if you have worked hard to achieve that 100% reliable recall.

More recall resources:

Reliable Recall - by Melissa Alexander

Teaching a Reliable Recall - by Eileen Trethewey

Off Leash and Running Free - by Karin Bridge

Really Reliable Recall DVD by Leslie Nelson (check out DogWise for the booklet of the same name too)

When is positive not positive?

At Pet Central we never stop talking about positive training and developing positive training techniques to help pets and their people. As such I recently posted about positive training Pet Central style so that you can understand exactly what it is we mean when we say that we are positive trainers.
I want pet owners to understand that we are transparent when it comes to the tools and methods that we use so clients know exactly what will happen during training. Pet owners are more than welcome to attend training without their own dog before hiring us and encouraged to ask detailed questions of the training that will be employed.

Recently I heard another story of a pet owner who had thoroughly researched her choice of trainer who advertised as positive and seemed to tick all the right boxes. This is a common story and just like the others, this pet owner found out that the methods employed caused her and her pup much distress which would have been avoidable had actual positive considerations and methods been put in place.

So what are pet owners to do? How do you know which trainers are actually what they say they are? How do you ensure that you and your dog will have pleasant training experiences?

Buyer Beware

Your pet and your relationship with your dog are your responsibility so much care must be taken when it comes to choosing both trainer and training. Unfortunately when it comes to choosing any service or product it is the consumer who suffers as a result of a poor choice.

Of course trainers should make it easier for owners to choose but this cannot always be relied upon.

Pet Central's top tips for choosing a trainer:

• pet owners need to become educated - read, research and refute as many training (and dog care) resources you can get your hands on
• generate a list of trainers in your area or those that may be able to help you (use recommendations, local advertising, Golden Pages etc.)
• have a look at their web sites for more information - use this to narrow your search
• interview trainers that you are interested in working with
• observe the trainer at work before you agree to sign up - don't bring your dog but do bring a friend for advice and a notepad to take notes

Trainer Talk

So what should you look out for and what questions should you ask when you do come to interview a potential trainer for you and your pet?

• although many trainers use terms such as 'positive', 'dog friendly', 'humane' and such it must be understood that these are just labels - there are NO clearly defined parameters laid down in the dog training field. Pet Central has very definite ideas of what we consider to be positive - if you like the sound of our criteria, find out if your chosen trainer agrees
• ask the trainer which books, authors, papers they have read and studied; ask about their education and experience (just because formal education is not required in the dog training industry, doesn't mean they shouldn't have it)
• trainers should demonstrate their knowledge of up to date and accurate training and behaviour information
• trainers should be easy to talk to and not make you feel bad for mistakes you may have made and the problems that you have with your pet
• use your intuition - do you like the trainer, does your dog, do they seem interested in you and your pet, do they show a genuine concern for the human-pet relationship?

Ask the following questions (and/or acquire this information from their website):

• how long have you been training?
• who did you study with; who did you learn about dog training from? how long did you study under them?
• how long have you studied dog behaviour and training?
• describe your methods
• do you have a list of referees?
• do you hold any certification? what professional groups do you belong to and why?
• what was the last educational event you took part in e.g. a seminar, certification, book etc.?
• how do you keep up to date with the latest tools, methods and research in dog training?
• can you recommend a book or author who compliments your style of training?
• how do you deal with a dog that is fearful when in class or during training?
• how do you deal with dogs that are reactive or barking during class?

Observe a trainer at work with other pets and pet owners:

• trainers using aversive equipment and/or punitive methods should be avoided
• just because you have seen a method or tool being used on TV does not mean that it is ok - in fact because it is featured on TV it is more likely to sensationalised and less accurate
• do the other dogs and owners look happy, relaxed and engaged in learning?
• trainers should spend one on one time with each pet-owner team at the same time never neglecting the group
• trainers should be patient and help owners to train their pets
• training classes should be small and the atmosphere in the class should be calm and as quiet as possible
• trainers and classes should be professional, well prepared, organised, punctual and reasonably priced relative to service

Beware of trainers...:

• ...who refuse to answer or become 'difficult' if asked such questions
• ...who make determinations about behavioural issues without meeting you and the dog
• ...who recommend/provide board and train programs - training is about improving the bond between owners and pets which is difficult to do if you are are not there!
• ...who offer dominance (or its variables e.g. leader of the pack, alpha etc.) as a solution or cause to behaviour
• ... who have learnt all they know as a result of 'having dogs all their lives'
• ...who spend time bad mouthing other trainers to clients
• ...who describe the use of food in training as 'bribery'
• ...who offer a guarantee on training

Training your dog should be the best times that you share with your pet and is a life long endeavour - choose a trainer that will help you and your dog enjoy training and perfect the relationship you have with your pet.

Choosing the right dog trainer for you by Lisa Mullinax, CPDT

Choosing a dog trainer from the HSUS

All trainers are not equal by Elenor Scheidemann

How to find a trustworthy trainer from Courteous Canine

Good trainers: How to identify one and why it is important to your practice of veterinary medicine - this one is for vets but some good advice for pet owners too

Don't try this at home!

Some research coming to light today is confirming what many many many enlightened positive trainers have been saying for a long time - dominance and TV training are not helping and in fact are more likely to cause harm.

Using 'Dominance' to Explain Dog Behaviour is Old Hat - Science Daily report on the work by the University of Bristol

Experts Say Dominance-Based Dog Training Techniques Made Popular by Television Shows Can Contribute to Dog Bites - by Sophia Yin

We have blogged about these issues before; check it out here and here.

If old dogs can learn new tricks, why can't traditional and TV trainers?

Happy training!

Canine Capers - dogs that love to steal

Are your family's belongings safe when your dog is around? Can you turn your back on your lunch if its within reach for your dog?

Tails (pun intended!) of thieving pups are very common and although more likely in certain breeds/types 'scavenging' desired items is a perfectly normal doggie behaviour.

Domestic dogs have both a hunting and scavenging history so they carry both of these tendencies to this day in their genes - as I said, some breeds/types more than others. Like so many so-called behaviour problems, stealing is a fun, natural and deeply ingrained behaviour for pet dogs. But these behaviours are usually considered 'problems' for the humans in their lives.

In truth, some natural behaviours when expressed excessively or inappropriately can also indicate a problem for the pooch too so a full history and sometimes a vet check up may be necessary.
There may also be great risk attached to this behaviour if your dog likes to steal and consume inappropriate items - this often results in huge vet bills and a seriously ill (or dead) dog.

Remember, like so many other behaviours we find less than attractive in our dogs we teach our dogs to steal! Huh?
...every time your dog gets his teeth into that sandwich you just made and left on the counter - well, you've guessed it your dog has been rewarded for his behaviour.
...when he steals laundry or the kid's toys and you chase him around you are rewarding him with a really fun game and lots of attention.

Many people think that telling off the dog, when they get the item back should stop this behaviour - WRONG! you are too late; the dog has already received a high value reward and your punishment only seems (to the dog) contingent on the fact that he is close to you. So all you have achieved is to worsen your dog's view of you and taught him to steal when you are not looking. Talk about making the problem worse!


What can be done to reform convicted canine criminals?

1. Management is ALWAYS the first step when dealing with behaviour modification:

It is your responsibility to control your dog's access to things or to prevent his access to things - you don't get to complain about the dog if an undesired behaviour is seen as a result of you not managing the dog's environment.
The more often the dogs gets to practice a behaviour the better they get at it so don't put your dog into a position where you know he will mess up - you will get frustrated and your dog gets better at stealing. Instead set your dog up for success!
We have already discussed that this is a natural behaviour so make preparations as if you expect it to happen - now prevent it.

Management in this scenario means to prevent the dog having access to these rewards:

• Your dog counter-surfs, NEVER leave enticing food within reach.
  
• Your dog can actually jump up onto the counter (lurchers I'm looking at you!!) - NEVER leave food or food 'scraps' on the counter. Make sure that chairs cannot be jumped up on so as to access tables or counters.


• Use a baby stair gate to keep your dog out of the kitchen or other tempting areas.


• Put toys, shoes and other chewable, stealable items away and confine the dog from ones that can not be stored out of reach.
  
• Close presses, drawers, wardrobes etc. that contain socks, shoes and other desirable items.


• Confine the dog from the washing line or hang clothes out while the dog is inside.

Hopefully you get the idea - more people training involved here than dog training!

2. Acceptable outlets for natural behaviours are a great way of channeling your dog's energies in a more appropriate way:

Dogs love to work for their food, the bigger the challenge the better.
Probably the safest way of doing this is to get several KONG toys and use these to deliver your dog's meals. You can use other food dispensing toys too - I love the Boomer Snack Ball, the Dog Pyramid or the Busy Buddy range.

For die-hards add some low-fat yoghurt or cottage cheese and freeze the KONGs; try Nina Ottoson games to keep canine minds occupied.
Simple strategies include scatter feeding which means to toss a handful of kibble onto the lawn or floor and get your dog using his nose to find each piece.

Try hiding stuffed KONGs for your dog to find.

I love sterilised bones and use these all the time along with KONGs and activity balls as a way of delivering food so that Rufus has to work for it.

3. Increased enrichment and interaction is the perfect way to occupy and tire your dog as well as improve your relationship with him.

Dogs that enjoy stealing are often dogs that were bred to use their mouths such as retrievers and spaniels or dogs that were bred for hunting such as lurchers and hounds. Although the genetic package that these dogs bring does not seem too appetising, these natural behaviours can be easily channelled in more appropriate directions.

These dogs love games such as fetch, search, hide n' seek and tug. Games are great fun but must have rules so that the human is always in control of their dog's behaviour. Have a look at this great video discussing the rules of Tug-of-War.

Implement games into your dog's training sessions and vice versa - training should be one big game to your dog (and you)!

4. Leave it, Take it and Object Exchanges are some of the essential exercises that real world dogs need to know and are especially important if you have a thief in the house.

Leave it and Take it, level 1:

• Hold some of your dogs fave treats in your fist and show it to your dog.


• Let the dog paw your fist, bite it, lick it but do not allow him to even get a taste of the hidden treat.


• Watch your dog closely and as soon as his attention lifts from your fist say 'take it' and open your fist allowing him to eat the treat.


• Practice a few times in a row and soon you will have a dog that has learned the way to get the things he wants is to be calm and sit back patiently.


• Once you can put your fist down to your dog without him pawing it or biting at it you can introduce the 'leave it' cue.


• Hold out your fist and ask the dog to 'leave it'; say 'take it', releasing the treat for good behaviour.


• You can gradually build the time that the dog needs to wait for his 'take it' cue and treat. Remember you can practice this with tug toys, his favourite ball or stuffed KONG.


• Once you have a patient dog, practice using different higher value treats or toys to really proof the exercise.

Playing Don't Touch - video showing how to put this into practice

Leave it and Take it, level 2:

• Once you have a dog that will leave your treat-enclosing-fist on cue you can move onto this exercise (continue proofing the first level too).


• Show your dog something yummy and then drop it onto the floor out to your side (and slightly behind).


• As soon as you do, stand in front of the dropped treat.


• Your dog will try to get around you, over you and even through you but don't allow him get that treat (if you have a really quick, small dog try standing on the treat, make sure to wear tough shoes though).


• As soon as your dog steps back, pick up the treat, say 'take it' and offer it to the dog from your hand. Do not let the dog pick the treat up off the floor.


• Once your dog is standing back as soon as you drop the treat you can introduce the cue 'leave it'. Drop treat and say 'leave it', then offer treat after saying 'take it'.


• Gradually build the time the dog must wait for his treat and you can also use higher value foods and toys.


• This exercise mimics real life situations where you might drop an item you would rather the dog didn't have.


• You can put the treat onto a coffee table or chair (at dog's eye level) and train the exercise too.

The art of doggie zen - great step by step teaching leave it and impulse control at the same time.

Rufus practicing doggie zen with a piece of hotdog (one of his faves!) on each of his front feet.
He has learnt to offer eye contact rather than staring at the treats that are oh so close!
After taking the photo, he got his 'take it' cue and I handed him each piece (don't worry I didn't torture him too long!).

Object exchanges:

• Make a list of your dog's favourite things such as toys and food.


• Start this exercise by allowing your dog to have something from low down on his list such as a latex toy (this will be different for every dog). Give it to your dog and allow him to play with and chew it.


• Approach your dog and say 'Thank you'; then offer the dog something one or two places higher up the list e.g. a piece of kibble


• Your dog should drop his toy and you should give him your offering while picking up the other item.
  
• Offer your dog the original item and start again.


• Your dog is learning that the words 'thank you' mean something better is coming and that they get to have their toy back too - soon your dog will learn to love having things taken off him.


• To advance with this exercise start using items higher up your dog's list to exchange.

This is a real life saver - if management fails (as it is likely to do) you now have a failsafe to fall back on should your dog get something you want back. Instead of running from you, you can now quickly get hold of a treat or other reward, say 'thank you' and have a dog that is willing to return the stolen item to you.

Remember, that stolen or found items are very valuable to dogs so you really have to proof this exercise. At the most advanced level, when you have a solid 'thank you' cue you can begin to exchange items that your dog loves to steal, tissues and socks are often particular favourites.

*** Some dogs are resource guarders and such exercises should not be attempted if this is the case. If your dog stiffens, freezes, bolts food, holds his chin over possessions, growls, snaps or lunges if you attempt to approach him while he is in possession of food, toys, forbidden items etc. do NOT practice these exercises. Do NOT tell your dog off and do NOT try to challenge him for possessions - you need advice immediately, get in touch with us straight away and we will try to help you.
This is the reason that children should NOT be involved in the training of such exercises until the dog is 100% reliable and you are sure that there is no resource guarding issue present. If in doubt contact Pet Central for advice or a referral ***

5. Teaching an incompatible behaviour is one of our favourite behaviour modification strategies. If you are dealing with an undesirable behaviour, think of what you would like the dog to do (without using the terms not, won't, don't etc.) and think of a behaviour opposite to the one he is doing that you don't like.

Place cues (e.g. go to mat, bed) are probably the most useful for counter-surfers. 'Go to mat' is an easy behaviour to teach especially if your dog has a bed that he already uses - here is step by step instruction from Sue Ailsby.

Check out this video of a 15 week old learning to go to bed on cue - cute!

This important and basic exercise can be proofed so that it can be maintained even when you are out of the room and when tempting food is on display.

Start teaching the basics of this exercise while you are in the room with him, building the 3Ds (distance, duration and distraction).

• Build duration first, starting with a few seconds up to several minutes.


• Then go back to asking for a few seconds while you build distance. Start by taking two steps back and then build to you taking a seat at the table reading. Gradually work to being able to step out of the room.


• Combine duration and distance.


• Now comes the fun part - introduce distraction, which for a counter-surfer is something really tasty on the counter. Go back to being close to your dog and only asking for place for a few seconds. Build again until you are at a point where you are ready to leave the room.


• I recommend rigging up a mirror so that you can still see the dog even though you can't see him. I usually find that the dog doesn't attempt to break his position until a few minutes have passed, as if he is trying to make sure you are really gone!


• Watch the dog through the mirror and as soon as you see him stir, cue him again (no need to shout) but don't let him see you. He will soon begin to realise that you are always watching him!


• Remember to reward him well for staying in his place with temptation within reach. I often use the distraction as a reward so again we are emphasising the idea that the dog that sits back and patiently waits is the one that is rewarded.

Remember, that while training is going on management is extra important so that the only time the dog has access to these situations is when you are in complete control and the environment is set up for training.

How to put an end to counter-surfing by Aidan Bindoff

Advanced Exercises:

• you can teach your dog that the presence of something they like to steal means something else

For example, for dogs that like to steal washing off the line I like to teach them that washing on the line means that there are reeeeally yummmmmy KONGs hidden in your bed or digging area.
This is easy to implement but the above 5 steps must be covered too.
It involves putting washing out on the line with the dog watching and then showing him where the stuffed KONGs are located, over and over. As he gets better at this game the KONGs are hidden a little better so that the dog has to really work to find them.

Soon your laundry basket predicts hidden yummy KONGs! Your dog can't steal washing off the line if he is searching for and working on buried, stuffed, frozen, KONGs now can he?!

• you can teach your dog to become a sniffer-dog for forbidden items and to either signal to you that he has found them or to bring them to you (depends on the type of item)

If your dog is a sock stealer or a lover of eating pooh (a behaviour called coprophagia) this exercise tends to work well. Don't worry, we want the dog to bring the socks not the pooh!

Sock retrieving works well with the object exchange exercise described above especially if you use really high value rewards as an exchange. Soon your dog will hunt out socks and rather then chewing and eating them he will bring them to you in exchange for liver treats (or something else he finds really yummy).

To train a pooh detector walk your dog on leash in an area where he himself likes to pooh and eat it or an area that other animals use. Allow the dog to search and as soon as he finds some click and treat, using a really high reinforcer. If your dog is not dissuaded by non-fecal treats try clicking and treating before actually getting too close to the pooh.
There are several other parts of a coprophagia program which we will discuss in a post in the future.

Training Techniques to Avoid:

You know what we are going to say, right?! - avoid aversives. They are not required for this type of training and are likely to have fallout which will make the behaviour worse and more difficult to modify.

Telling your dog off, hitting him, yelling at him, popping his leash etc. if he attempts to steal will more than likely teach the dog to carry out this criminal behaviour when you are not looking.
Because of the dog's ability to associate correction with the presence of the owner all sorts of remote devices and techniques have been developed.

Popular choices include remote training collars (that deliver shocks or sprays) which the owner can release if the dog approaches a forbidden item such as a sock laden laundry basket.
There are a couple of reasons why I find these a bad idea (other than they are not required and do not work any faster or efficiently in a training program then the combined techniques described above).
First we have no idea what other stimuli the dog is likely to associate with the sudden shock or spray - he may not even get the idea that the socks are what we want him to avoid.
Second the holder of the remote control will have to have exquisite timing so that they can cause the release of the aversive within split seconds of the dog approaching the basket. The difficulty with executing the aversive bang on time is the main contributor to emotional and behaviour problems associated with such training tools.

I have worked with dogs that have had such remote techniques used to help curb their thieving. I remember one young Border Collie mix who had been taught, by a previous trainer, not to jump up at the counter by rigging piled drinks cans to fall when the dog jumped up. This dog was afraid to enter the kitchen and became aggressive if approached by his owner in that room. Obviously this poor dog was petrified of this loud crash every time he entered the room and now had a whole pile of behavioural issues to work through - oh yeah and he still attempted to steal food left in other rooms. The owners had wisely decided not to rig cans in other rooms and situations after seeing this fall out.

If you attempt to 'correct' the dog after you have recovered a stolen item you can bet that your dog will learn to work harder at 'keep-away' and you may even encourage a dog to aggressively defend valuable possessions.
Then not only will we have a dog that won't come back but also a resource guarder - a much more serious situation then a straight forward thief.

Also bear in mind that this behaviour is part of your dogs natural make up so it is inhumane to correct him while no appropriate outlet is provided.

Quick Tips:

• If you catch your dog with something you would prefer he didn't have approach slowly and calmly and do not make direct eye contact.


• If your dog freezes, growls or shows any of the resource guarding signs described above toss some of your dog's favourite treats or toy away from the stolen item. Keep tossing these to keep him away, recover your item only if it is safe to do so.


• Contact us immediately for help with stealing and resource guarding.


• In the mean time implement management strategies - we will discuss 'behaviour first aid' with you in an attempt to prevent any further occurences until you can get help.
  


• If your dog just likes to put his front feet on to counters to see what's up there get working on a place cue and implement the exercises described in this post. Set up some training situations to show him that four-on-the-floor is much more beneficial.


• Sit in the kitchen and place some food on the counter, far enough back so that it is out of reach to the dog. Sit back and pretend to ignore the dog as he jumps and bounces.


• As soon as your dog puts all four feet on the floor (even if just for a split second to recover his balance) click and toss a really high value treat.


• Repeat until you can have something on the counter and a dog that looks to you rather than jumping up.


• Remember to only allow this type of situation arise during purposely set up training sessions - other wise continue with management.

If you have a dog that loves to steal items contact Pet Central for advice - we love helping with this issue. Remember, when it comes to stealing your dog is programmed to do it - bear that in mind and prevent it becoming a problem.