Pet Central blog is moving!!!!!

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All of our training posts will come with us and many will be updated too.  Comments and the original posting dates will also come along so that we can keep track of everything.

Don't worry lots of great training posts are on the way. 

You can still contact us at any time for help and advice on 086 8765267/0469567482 or anne.petcentral@gmail.com

Happy Gotcha-day Rufus!

This day 5 years ago I arranged to go and see a dog that I had seen on the internet in the Laois pound. I wanted a 'shaggy' dog and was thinking along the lines of maybe a beardie or Tibetan terrier cross and then I saw a wire haired mix that the pound had named 'Rufus'.

He was described as being big and needing a special home as he had some issues. Over the phone I spoke to the SPCA warden there and filled him in on my background and he was pleased as the dog had been with them for several weeks.

They obviously saw something special in him to warrant keeping him so long and I am so grateful that they held out before finding him a home.

So that evening, I drove to Laois with my biggest crate in the back of the car and went to meet my potential new companion (I say potential but I knew that once I had met the dog I wouldn't be able to leave him in the pound!!). When I saw him my jaw must have dropped a bit (!) as he was definitley bigger than I had thought. He was kenneled beside a very noisy neighbour and as such there was a bit of fence fighting going on - bit of red flag.

We took him out of his kennel and I began to make friends with him. I had brought some toys to see what he thought and was delighted when I was able to entice him to a bit of a game of chase, other than that he wasn't really sure what toys were for - another red flag?

I did a bit of handling of his various areas and realised that he was not terribly comfortable with handling, delivering some inhibited bites - big, huge red flag BUT great bite inhibition.

After the warden and myself struggled to get him into the crate we set off home. First time inside the door he cocked his leg, and several more times until I had got on the ball and began a toilet training program.

I couldn't leave him as he was very destructive, terrified of getting into the car, had obviously never worn a leash before and was reluctant to meet new people. I was beginning to get the picture that I had a lot of work ahead of me - toilet training, leash training, people friendliness, dog-dog reactivity, resource guarding, manners training, alone training.... the list went on and on.

The second day I had him I brought him to be neutered and checked out by the vet and also to begin some socialisation at the vets - luckily for our training program, Rufus was right from the start very food motivated (and still is).

Once he was over the neuter surgery we worked on getting Rufus into a routine which included lots of short training sessions and plenty of walks so that the process of teaching him that the world was a nice place could progress. He came everywhere with me (and for the most part, still does!) but we also worked on alone time too - never leaving him alone until we had worked on getting him up to longer periods of time - friends and family were roped into minding him with strict instructions (and lots of treats) anytime I had to go to non-doggie places.

Work on his discomfort around strange people was the most urgent work so we concentrated on that first while working on teaching him to stay home alone, toilet training and in the car training.

Then the dog-dog work started (with much fear and trepidation on my part!).

The first dog I introduced him to up close (after a couple of months of gradual desensitisation and counterconditioning work) was my sister's dog Mac, a setter mix who at the time was young and very appeasing around older dogs. They were introduced on neutral territory, on leash at first and then when Mac solicited play and Rufus responded positively we let them off leash in a wide open (secure) space. I had worked hard on Rufus' recall up to that point but had not started to exercise him off leash.

The two got on like a house on fire and chased each other around me; they had a great time. We took regular breaks in the games and this photo is a pictuer of the two of them waiting for a treat for sitting politley during play on that first introduction.

The two boys had a ball and begun to develop a friendship that continues to this day.

After 2 years of solid work Rufus and myself had got to know one another so well that I could relax when in social situations with him.

Dog-dog work continues as it does to this day and Rufus has come on in leaps and bounds - we still have some proximity and resource issues with strange dogs but I understand the scenarios and thus manage these situations by separating dogs when they have resources and by practicing calm behaviours at a safe distance when there are lots of other particularly adolescent dogs around.

Five years down the line I have the greatest dog I have ever known - yes he still has some issues but I couldn't expect him to be perfect, especially since he didn't have the right start.

We work everyday on overcoming any problems but I have the best relationship I have ever had with a dog and a new understanding of what owners of troubled dogs go through.

Its not easy but has been very rewarding.

Rufus is my heart-dog; he is a relaxed companion at home and an active but responsive partner when out and about. I can take him anywhere and I know that he will happily lie at my feet.

He never complains when he has to wait around with me or for me, he puts up with all the fosters we have in the house and the dogs we transport in the car beside him, he tolerates and usually enjoys all of the attention he gets from passers-by, he waits when I ask him to stop and comes to my side if he's spooked - he asks for so little in return but gives me sooooo much.

He fits the true definition of a companion, a constant companion who is with me everywhere we go. I have learned so much from living with this dog and I hope that this helps me to help others who also experience issues with their dogs.

After these five years the biggest lesson I have learnt is that is all boils down to relationship - this only comes with time, patience and persisitance.
During those first few weeks of living with Rufus there were many times when I was tempted to bring Rufus back to the pound as it all felt too difficult - looking back I realise that that would have been the easy solution for me but certain death for him.

If that had happended I would have lost so much; so much joy and friendship and so many learning opportunites.

I could write posts upon posts about all the problems that he had and some of the problems he still has but it wouldn't change the relationship I have with him now - Rufus is Rufus and I wouldn't change him for the world.

5 years of Rufus slide show!

Candle Light Vigil for Bruce

Bruce is a pit bull type dog that was seized in Northern Ireland on suspicion of being a Pit Bull, a breed/type that are banned in N.I. That was two years ago and despite numerous appeals and lots of back and forth, Bruce is still being held in horrible conditions.

Check out Bruce's bebo page that includes details of the history of this awful case.

This is a complex issue but besides the politics and controversy Bruce continues to suffer.

We at Pet Central are strongly opposed to BSL in all its forms and as such support moves to have Bruce released and to have BSL abolished.

There will be a candle light vigil on Thursday 23rd July 2009 in the Garden of Remembrance at 7pm sharp.
The Garden is just off O'Connell Street in Dublin.

It would be lovely to see you there!

Even if you can't make it there please have a little 'Bring Bruce Home' or 'End BSL' protest at home to show your support - people all over the world are doing this on this same night.

Regardless of where you express your disgust please take note of the following:

Bring Bruce Home - Plea to put a stop to BSL and the cruel punishment of“Specific Breeds” Candle lit vigil for Bruce in IrelandA candle lit vigil for Bruce, the alleged pit bull in Northern Ireland. Protests are being organized in New York and all over the world on Bruce’s behalf and are planned for 23rd July.

Ireland will complement this candle-lit vigil to be published on the same day. Our location will be at the Garden of Remembrance just off O'Connell street Dublin 1, @ 7.00 sharp

What is needed?
1) A candle,
2) A camera,
3) A sign saying ‘Bring Bruce Home’ and/or “Stop Breed specific legislation” giving a location (county/state/country) to show how far spread the campaign is.

JOIN OUR CALL TO "PAWS""Paws" for a moment of silence and join us in lighting a candle in honour, support and recognition of our beautiful canine friends that have lost their life true BSL and their families that have suffered loosing innocent much loved pets. It is wrong that an entire breed Of dog should be banned purely on the bases of its genetic make-up, without any consideration of an Individual dog’s characteristics and temperament, "Bruce", an innocent victim and pawn of Northern Ireland's Breed Specific Legislation law.

We can't do many things for Bruce as he still sits - just under 2 years - caged, isolated, and physically neglected at the hands of a government agency. These laws were enacted to decrease harm to it’s' citizens but is now causing harm to many people, their pets, including Bruce, and his familyExperts have testified and reported that, "Regardless of the tremendous pain and isolation of these last 2 years, evidenced by his poor physical condition, and despite his terrible circumstances, Bruce is still a friendly, well-adjusted dog and he poses no danger to the public in any way." These experts have testified to the courts of this fact. ", in support of his steadfast-unwavering courage, continuing trust and devotion, and in recognition of his undeniable "spirit", that continues to touch the world and ask for his safe return. Please Show your support

Dr Yin's take on dominance and Cesar Millan

Dr Sophia Yin is a renowned vet and behaviourist who has recently compiled a wonderful piece summarising and explaining the issues many in the dog training world have with The Dog Whisperer, Cesar Millan and using 'dominance' as a training paradigm.

Check out this wonderful explanation which includes straight forward detail, extra resources and really useful comparisons:
The Dominance Controversy and Cesar Millan

Interested in this area? - there are lots of resources available to expand your knowledge so that words like dominance are used appropriately and that dog training does not come down to battle of wills:

Dirty Words - a post from Pet Central detailing the problems associated with dominance used as a training paradigm.
AVSAB Position Statement on the use of Dominance Theory in Behaviour Modification of Animals
The Dog Whisperer Controversy - from 4Paws University
The Dog Whisperer Controversy: FAQs - from 4Paws University

We owe it to our dogs to have an understanding of them and their behaviour and to modify their behaviour kindly and with their natural behaviour at heart.
If you are interested in learning more or have any queries or comments please don't hesitate to contact us.

Who's walking who?

While reactivity is the most common behaviour 'issue' we deal with with our clients, pulling on the leash is the number one most common 'obedience' issue that we see with clients.
It is also the one behaviour issue that has generated more product development (and some of the nastiest equipment too) than any other - all those "miracle" cures and still leash pulling is a problem; go figure!

Believe it or not nice loose leash walking (LLW) manners are pretty easy to teach but as usual we teach our dogs to pull! (Are you beginning to see a pattern here? we are the cause of many of the 'problems' we blame our dogs for!!)

Dogs pull for a number of reasons:

• first off they have twice the number of legs we have so move faster than we do
  
• they have different priorities than we do when out walking - we like to take in lovely sights where as dogs move so as to gather as much scent-information as possible by following pee-mails and scent trails
  
• the act of pulling, which causes an opposition relfex is highly rewarding to dogs (you have seen sled-dogs pulling? they look like they are having fun, right?)
  
• dogs get where they want to go by pulling to get there - works every time, with owner in tow!
  

Despite all the tools, training is the only solution - tools are just that, they don't necessarily change behaviour forever. So lets look at how to train the dog to walk nicely.

Is it heeling, LLW or just not pulling?

First thing you need to understand is that different people have different ideas of what they want when walking their dog on leash. Decide what you want and work for that.

Heeling is traditionally a competitive obedience position that involves the dog walking on the handler's left side, dog's shoulder level with handler's trouser seam, maintaining close position and eye contact.
This position, although it looks smart, is usually not necessary for pet dog walking.

Loose leash walking (LLW) can mean a number of different things, depending on who you talk to. It is essentially just the dog walking at such a pace and in such a position that keeps the loose leash. Many people like to categorise a loose leash as one that looks like a 'smile' as the dog walks.
I ask owners to hold the leash and their belt buckle - if the dog puts sufficient pressure on the leash to move their hand away from their belt buckle then that is not a loose leash.
When teaching LLW we usually look for a close-ish position, some eye contact and attention on the owner. The leash should form a J shape between handler and dog. This position is suitable for crossing the street, walking along busy streets or close to other dogs.

'Just not pulling' is what most people want from their dogs. For the most part this is the position we aim for - no pressure on the leash. Dog can range and wander within the leash's length e.g. 6 feet but no more. This is a normal everyday walking position ideal for most dogs in many situations.

A combination of 'just not pulling' and a closer LLW with attention are the basics in leash walking that pet dogs require at a minimum.

Step 1: you've guessed it, its management

We have to stop the dog getting the opportunity to practice this behaviour any longer - lets face it, they are already pretty good at it! This is where tools come in but be careful not all tools are suitable for all dogs.

Up to a couple of years or so ago, I would probably have recommended head collars in many situations where we were re-training leash walking.

Not so anymore and there are a couple of reasons.
The first being that many dogs find head collars really aversive and in some cases even after I have worked hard on gradual desensitisation and counterconditioning (D+C) in an attempt to teach them to enjoy wearing it. Out of all the head collars out there I find dogs most able to enjoy wearing a Gentle Leader but only after a careful D+C program.
Secondly, I find that many pet owners don't want to go through the gradual process of introducing the head collar and they lose faith and abandon the process too early.

Don't get me wrong head collars are still part of my tool box but I use them only in very specific cases, usually connected with reactivity and rarely with loose leash walking exercises.

Instead, I have almost totally converted to the use of front-leading harnesses for LLW training. There are several brands including the Halti harness, the Easy Walker and the Sens-ation and Sens-ible Harnesses.
Right now I prefer the Halti one as there is a ring for leash connection at the front and in the more traditional withers region. This adds to versatility and I like to use it with a training leash that has two trigger hooks on it or alternatively with two leashes, one attached to each ring.

When out walking, this will stop the dog from pulling because as he does the leash tightening on the front ring will guide the dog to the side and back towards you. Along with training techniques this is a very effective tool.
But, like all tools it is limited - there is no point using it unless you are going to work on training the dog too. Otherwise the dog will learn to pull on this just as he did on all the other tools that you have tried.

When working on LLW (or indeed any training exercises) please do not use choke chains, prong collars, tightening collars, shock collars, extendable leashes, regular harnesses or any gimmicks. These are not necessary and will make training and behaviour change more difficult. Not being able to go where he wants to go at the pace he wants to go at is aversive enough without adding more aversives to the process.

Did you know that other than being unreliable and dangerous, extendable leashes teach the dog to pull?! The dog must pull so that the leash extends therefore the dog is rewarded for putting pressure on the leash. Also, when pulled the leash provides a little resistance as the spool extends - this creates that opposition reflex further reinforcing the pulling.

Jerking, popping, yelling, hitting, poking, kicking are not necessary for leash training (or indeed any training) so please don't include these acts in your training programs. They don't stop the dog from pulling (think why you must repeatedley do it?) and just serve to cause your dog to think worse of you.

APDT (UK) Why we don't use choke chains - remember pressure on the neck caused by any training tool can lead to problems so train your dog to walk nicely rather than rely on tools.

Step 2: training exercises

There are several different training exercises that I incorporate when training leash manners. Not only do we work on leash working but also on other cues particularly positions such as sit and on eye contact and attention.

Red Light Green Light

This is really another management exercise as I don't believe this on its own to be truly powerful enough to teach a dog to walk nicley on leash.

Because we have taught our dogs to get where they want to go by pulling that has now got to STOP.

If the dog puts pressure on the leash, stop in your tracks and be a very boring tree. Do not move nor engage the dog - totally ignore him.

For what ever reason the leash slackens, immediatley start walking again. This must become a regular part of your dog's walks and you must be consistent.

Red light green light should start from the time that the leash is put on the dog, even while still in the house. The dog must be calm to have his leash put on firslty and then must not put any pressure on the leash from that moment onwards.

The first time it might take you several minutes just to get to the front door but after just a little consistency (and a lot of visualising calm blue oceans!) you will be able to proceed on a walk in a calm manner.

While implementing red light green light you may also want to use penalty yards for dogs that really put effort into pulling you toward something smelly plus sometimes its easier to move backwards than to stnad still.

If the dog pulls, use the front clip harness to guide the dog gently back as you take a step or two backwards. This is also nice as it gets the dog focused on you again. Reward a slack leash with a brisk walk back to whatever was initially so interesting.

Attention!

Lets start with focus exercises as these are needed for all sorts of training. Having the 'watch me' means that he is paying attention to you and not watching (and getting excited by) all the things going on around him. This is important in situations that your dog is likely to get wound up about.

Teach your dog that watching you is very rewarding. Begin by teaching a focus cue indoors in a low distraction area. You can lure or capture this behaviour - I prefer capturing as once you get the behaviour, it is quicker as you don't have to fade lures.

• To lure the dog start with something tasty in your hand and move your hand to your mouth as if you were going to eat it (but don't). You can make yummy noises to get his attention.
  
• Before moving your hand to your mouth, say 'watch me' or 'look'.
  
• Your dog's gaze will hopefully follow your hand and as soon as his eyes flicker to meet yours say 'YES' and give him the treat.
  
• After 4 or 5 trials like this begin to hold the treat in your hand but move your other, empty hand to your mouth - still use the treat as a reward delivered from your other hand.
  
• After another 4 or 5 trials you should have a dog that will make eye contact on the verbal cue and not have to wait for the hand movement.
  
• Now begin to fade the moving hand by making smaller movements after you say the focus cue. (for example, only move your hand to your chin, then only to your neck level etc.)
  
• After only a couple of training sessions you should be able to ask for eye contact without the need to move your hand or lure the dog.
  
• Remember the most important part of lure-reward training is the removal of the lure as early on as possible -otherwise it is likely to become a crutch for dog and trainer.
  


• To capture eye contact, sit with your dog in a boring situation. Ignore your dog's attempts to get attention or to get a game going and wait.
  
• Eventually he will give eye contact, as soon as he does even if only for a split second be ready to click and treat.
  
• Very soon he will begin to offer eye contact, add a focus cue and only click and treat eye contact given after the focus cue.
  
• Saying that however, I am happy to reward my dog for offering spontaneous, un-cued eye contact at any time, especially if we are around other dogs - so much so that it has become part of Rufus's default behaviour when he wants something; he sits and bores his eyes into yours, moving his big slobbery face close to yours until you give in and let him have whatever he is looking for!
  

Regardless of how you get the behaviour as soon as you have it on cue you can begin to build the amount of time the dog is required to look at you. You will soon be able to proof this while out and about in ever more distracting situations.

Try these advanced exercises:

• Hold a ball, toy or yummy treat out to the side of your body and waggle it. Your dog will focus on that and wait for him to offer eye contact. As soon as he does deliver the ball, toy or treat. Top Training Tip: use distractions as rewards - something your dog really wants is a perfect reward. Ask for a desired behaviour such as a watch me and then allow him access to the distraction.
  
• Ask your dog for a sit AND eye contact as part of his Learn-to-Earn exercises.
  Bring your dog to an area where there is lots of doggie traffic. Sit at a distance that is mildly distracting for your dog. Play 'Look at that' by clicking and treating everytime your dog looks at another dog. Soon your dog will be watching you rather than other dogs. You can then move closer and begin working at that distance.
  
• Stand in front of your dog and ask him to watch you. Turn slightly to the side and wait for your dog to find your eyes again - reward him and repeat. This is great exercise for teaching your dog to keep eye contact while on the move.

Recognise the above focus exercises, yes they are from out recent posting on training recalls! That's how important focus exericses are - they are needed everywhere.

Sit to Greet

Sit is probably one of the most important and helpful exercises to teach your dog. It can be applied to a million different situations and in some is literally a life saver.

For LLW training at the very least you should have a good verbal sit cue and teach your dog to sit to ask to greet other people and animals.

Sit, Stand and Down - lure reward training positions, remember to get rid of the lure as quickly as possible.

Now that your dog has learned to sit in a low-distraction place, you have to proof it in all sorts of exciting situations. The best place to practice sit training at home is just inside the door so that your puppy likes sitting here, and can be taught to do so when greeting people. Have a little pot of kibble inside the door so that your dog can be rewarded for polite greetings.

When out and about start training Sit to Greet at such a distance from the greet-ee that your dog does not get too excited. Your dog should be getting the idea that the way to greet others is to sit first and the way to keep the greeting pleasant is for him to keep all-4-on-the-floor.

Say Please!

Teach your dog that access to exciting, yummy things comes through you only. This is especially important if your are training (or rather re-training) an adult dog. Implementing a 'Learn-to-Earn' program is easy and a great relationship booster.

The dog must perform a desired behaviour such as a sit before you allow him access to anything that he wants such as being fed, throwing the ball, playing tug, jumping up onto the sofa, going out the door, getting his leash on, talking to that dog, greeting that person...well you get the idea. Anything that the dog wants they must ask politely for.

Like any training exercise this needs to be proofed in different situations so remember to practice while out on walks too.

Saying please includes before having the leash put on. If you take your dog's leash out and your dog goes nuts then do not put his leash on until he is calm. This may take a while - you have trained him to be crazy as he is rewarded for this behaviour with a walk.

Follow Me!

Before we teach the dog to walk nicely on leash we have to teach him to follow us. This is an exercise more for the owner than the dog (aren't they all, I hear you say!) You need to learn how to keep the dog with you without having the back up of a leash and collar - be an interesting, exciting owner and your dog will want to stay beside you.

I prefer rewarding with a toy for this exericse that I hide in my pocket until we have a break for a quick game of tug.

The secret to getting your dog following, is to move away from him while talking to him in an excited voice. If your dog loses interest, tries to get ahead of you or moves off in another direction you should change direction to encourage following again. Essentially you will do the opposite to your dog - if he slows you speed up, if he turns you go in the other direction etc. This way the dog learns to keep an eye on you.

Start, as always, in a low distraction area and reward following after a few steps. Build the distance you can maintain a following dog and then move onto higher distraction areas.

If your dog does not follow do what ever you have to get and keep his attention. DO NOT work with your dog off leash in an unsecured area unless you have a 100% reliable recall.

Following Course at Home
Following Course at the Park
Open Field Following

If you have learned to keep your dog with you, paying attention to you, even in a distracting environment then you are ready to start LLW!

One-Step-Sit

Now we are going to put these three exericses together: sit, watch me and follow.

Start working on this in a boring situation (on leash) and just wait for your dog to sit. As soon as he sits take a giant step and wait for your dog to join you. It doesn't matter what he is doing, whether he is staring into space, barking or pulling on leash - just wait.

He will eventually come to find your face and he will sit. As soon as he does reward him and take another giant step.

Next time won't take so long and soon you have a dog that is calmly moving with and sitting as soon as you stop.

Now you can begin to delay giving him his treat and wait for him to make eye contact with you (while sitting) before treating him.

When you have progressed to the point where he is offering eye contact as he moves with you and then automatically sits when you stop you can begin building the number of steps that you take.

Follow different patterns so that the dog is encouraged to walk along side you - walking in a circle, with the dog on the inside of that circle will encourage him to walk closely.

As you build to taking several steps you will notice that as you slow down in preparation to stop your dog will watch you closely and then sit. You are learning how to have him pay very close attention to you -slow down slightly.

Reward One Step and Sit

This lovely simple exercise teaches a very nice attention giving closer walking position which is ideal for distracting, exciting and busy situations. You will need to proof it in ever distraction situations and build the number of steps up.

Default Loose Leash

This along with the above exercises are really the important ones for me and like with any training program, with a bit of fairness, consistency and patience you will see success. A loose leash should be a default behaviour for your dog - what I mean is that the dog should always be aware of keeping the leash loose, without cueing from you. So if you stand still the dog may move within the length of the leash amid distractions without a word from you - sounds hard to believe? well get started working on it so!

First decide what length of leash is comfortable for walking your dog (well, ok this should be decided at the very start but here we are!). I think the best length for comfort and versatility is a 6 foot leash that has another ring so it can be shortened if necessary.

Begin this training exercise in a small room, such as the bathroom so as to give the dog a chance at success - he can't move too far away in a small room.

Click and treat (C+T) the dog while the leash is loose - which should be quite a bit because you are working in a small area.

As you get the hang of it, start putting a small amount of pressure on the leash, just so it goes taught and wait for the dog to move in such a way that slackens the leash.

C+T as soon as he moves to loosen the leash.

After a few sessions of this move to a larger room, after a few sessions here the dog should be getting the idea and you should be able to move around the room. If he tightens the leash you move so that the pressure is slight and then wait for the dog to move in such a way that loosens the leash again. C+T his efforts to keep the leash loose.

Remember anytime the dog moves with you keeping a loose leash, C+T.

After a few sessions, you can begin to up the distraction level by training outdoors in relatively low distraction situations.

Regularly stop and stand still and remind the dog that a loose leash is the way to C+Ts.

I really like the Silky Leash videos from Grisha Stewart of Ahimsa Dog Training - she trains dogs that tension on the leash is cue to return to you - neat! Check out the videos and see for yourself.

Walking in a wide circle, with your dog to the inside of the at circle, is the best way to develop a close walking position. Take a few steps, wait for your dog to join you at your side, then C+T. Repeat until you can move around the entire circle with the dog at your side - this will take practice.

Cavaletti, Ladders and Balanced Walking

Whenever I do Who's walking who? Workshops for pets and their people one of the favourite tools is cavaletti, ladders and obstacles.

Let me explain - cavaletti are borrowed from the horse world and are basically ground or very nearly ground poles that are spaced according to the size and condition of the animal. They are used to help the animal develop and extend gait, to develop the animal's rear strength, to teach the animal how to improve placement of their feet, to raise awareness of their body positioning and lots more. There are lots of uses for these tools in performance horse and dog training.

By using low cavaletti or a ladder flat on the ground we can teach a pulling dog to slow and steady their gait and concentrate how to place their feet.

I first heard of balanced walking when I started to research and study T-touch. Pulling dogs are off balance all the time and by helping them to maintain balance they will find it easier to walk without forging ahead.

For more information check out these resources on T-touch walking in balance by Jennifer Merrit:
Walking in Balance with T-touch
Walking in Balance with T-touch video

For more information on T-touch why not check out Getting in T-touch with your dog by Linda Tellington-Jones.

During Who's walking who? Workshops we also use several different clicker training methods including these discussed here.

Walking your dog should be a pleasure for you and your dog and should not be dreaded or cause you to have an aching body (pulling causes much aching for dogs too). Please teach your dog to walk nicely on leash so that everyone enjoys daily walks and trips.
The first and most important thing to remember is to not allow pulling - remember when going on walks during training use your front clip harness and red light green light (with penalty yards) so that you prevent pulling being rewarded.
Work on training exercises in the mean time in ever increasingly distracting situations so that soon you will be able to walk from A to B without having to stop and start.

Walking nicely is beneficial to people and pets and does wonders for the pet-owner relationship so give your dog a new loose leash on life!

If you would like any advice on LLW with your dog don't hesitate to contact Pet Central for help.

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Happy training!

Recommended Trainers in Ireland

By now you get it - Pet Central is all about positive solutions to pet dog training and behaviour issues.
We want to make sure that pet owners (and their pets) have plenty of support and as many options as possible so that all training can be positive.

Here is a list of trainers from around the country who also choose positive, kind and scientifically derived training methods:

• Maureen Byrne Ph.D., Cert. Dog PsychologyClogherhead, Co. Louth, Ireland.
  Tel: 086 8200010. Email: mobyrne@utvinternet.com/www.dogsbehavingbadly.ie
  
• Emmaline, Carlow - www.citizencanineireland.com Contact No: 0857697274
  
• Bev Truss, Clare - Pet Problems www.petproblems.net
  
• Alison Bush Happier Hounds Dog TrainingGraigu SpinkAbbeyleix Co Laois
  Phone: 0877749521 Email: happierhoundsdogtraining@topmail.ie
  
• Dog Training Ireland, Dublin www.dogtrainingireland.ie E-mail: info@dogtrainingireland.ie Phone: 01 8665088

So now there's no excuse not to go with positive, fun and effective training no matter where you live!